A Man’s Complete Business Suit Guide

Your workplace wardrobe speaks volumes to how seriously you take yourself. The essential ingredient to dressing well is the desire to do so. That is something you must possess on your own. What we can do is teach you how to dress like a boardroom show-stopper or be forever lost in the sea of crooked ties and retina burning suit patterns. The business suit is the epitome of a man’s wardrobe and if the heart is willing, we are here to help you achieve your definition of the modern man.

The Suit Cuts

Italian 

Renowned by Giorgio Armani:

• Fit: Slim
• Shoulders: Padded
• Material Build: Lightweight
• In a word: Trendy
• Best suited for: Tall, lean build

British 

Renowned by The legendary Savile Row:

• Fit: Regular
• Shoulders: Thick, tapered padding
• Material Build: Sturdy
• In a word: Classic
• Best suited for: Average build

 

American  

Renowned by Brooks Brothers:

• Fit: Loose
• Shoulders: Natural (Minimal to no padding)
• Material Build: Comfort
• In a word: Confident
• Best suited for: Large build

                                                

Blazer + Pants

For men to master the revolving door of office fashion, it begins and ends with the suit. A timeless style that empowers anyone worthy enough to inherit the history, honour, and privilege it bestows. To master this fine art, one needs both superior materials and impeccable tailoring.

Color: A dark, rich color (such as navy) establishes a bold statement rather than lackluster black. As the most versatile color of the acceptable business-color palate, it is the safest yet most celebrated color choice for your business wardrobe. A smooth charcoal grey comes in a close second. All the other shades of grey can battle it out for third place.

Material: Cashmere wool is the best material for a suit as it is lightweight and breathable but sturdy enough to uphold its shape after prolonged wear.

Shoulders: A slender decline with minimal padding for a natural look. We’re closing deals here, not playing linebacker.

Waist: Tapered. Moving on.

Buttoning:

• Two-button jacket: Top button only
• Three button jacket: Middle button only
• Waistcoat: All buttons except bottom
• Always unbutton when you sit down.

Trousers:

• Pants should fit at the waist, like how pants should fit.
• Flat front trousers provide a clean look while pleats will gift you some more real estate at the waistline
• Have your pants tailored with the bottom just kissing the top of your shoe laces for a classic look, or hem them to mid-ankle with a slim cut for some modern flair
• French fly: A button closure on an extended waistband taking stress off the zipper
• Reinforced lining in crotch area, seams, and waistband to add structure

Patterns and styles

Even at its simplest, the suit is the most exquisite outfit a man can wear. Traditionalists will die by the standard styling of the suit: Two buttons, cut straight, solid and conservative colors. Bless them for their loyalty to conservatism, however, there’s nothing wrong experimenting with the flavorful fashions of the modern day, so try these on for size…

Styles

Double-breasted suits   

Vintage menswear has come roaring back in the form of the double-breasted suit. Old school is cool.

A classier variation of the two-button suit, the double-breasted suit comes at you with six buttons. An overlap of fabric in the torso area adds a bit of bulk so please tailor responsibly.

Don’t be afraid to match a double-breasted blazer with different color trousers and a unique styling of shirt; as the blazer’s complexity will give you free license to experiment.

Three-Piece Suit

Modern and dynamic, the three piece suit is as simple as adding a waistcoat to your suit.

You should have it fairly fitted to your body to minimize bulk and still have it look sharp if you take off your blazer.

Try using a different color waistcoat that compliments your suit to add some more depth to your outfit. We wouldn’t want to make things too easy.

Patterns

Windowpane

Can double as business-suit or party-wear, depending on patterns and shades.

Glen Plaid

Think Brit. This pattern is an ideal pairing with a three-piece suit and a cup of tea.

Pinstripes

Exudes a business aura like no other pattern. Popularized by gangsters of the early 1900s.

Shirts and Ties

The base of your outfit, it provides the foundation upon which your suit will be built. Spare no expense, and set your creativity free.

Collar

• Contrast collar: Allows for people to wear colorful shirts while still being “white collar”.  Also known as the banker shirt.
• Shape: Collar shape is important to match the proportions of your face. Choose a spread collar if you have a narrow face and a point collar for a round face.
• “Button down” refers to buttons at the ends of collars, not actual buttons on the shirt.

Gussets

Reinforcement at the bottom of where the front and the back of your shirt meet. They are a necessary insurance plan and a standard in any  well-made shirt.

Buttons

Thick, four-holed, pearl buttons are the best and are also fairly standard in today’s shirts.

Cuffs

Your shirt cuff should peek out about half an inch out of your jacket sleeve.

• One button barrel = Classy, simple, versatile
• Two button notch: Dressier upgrade formalizes anything you wear
• French cuff: Super sophisticated, use either silk knot or silver link

Combinations

All ties should be composed of silk of the finest quality. Try these arrangements if you’re going for:

• Classic: Subtle pattern shirt with skinny bold tie
• Modern/Hip: Button down shirt with knit tie
• Suave: Light pattern shirt with subtle pattern tie
• NBA Draftee: Windowpane with check-complimenting tie
• Banker: Striped shirt and textured knit tie

Bow ties?  Sure, as long as you are comfortable wearing them. And trust us, people will know if you’re comfortable wearing them. The gorge (aka where lapels on your blazer meet) should be fairly high or else your bow tie will look stranded in all that shirt space in your torso area.                                          

Accessories

Shoes, timepieces, and the assortment of accessories that are required to complete the perfect outfit. A chain is only as strong as its weakest link.

Shoes

Business attire calls for black, cap-toed oxfords for a formal look. If you’re looking to dress down, brown wingtips are a good option and loafers if you really want to go all Casual Friday on us.

Pocket square

Your ace-in-the-hole is the ever-charming silk pocket square, which draws attention to your torso area and adds a punch of flavor to any outfit. You should have three pocket squares: one being white and the other two as versatile colors that complement the secondary color of your shirts.

Tie bar

The cherry on top of the suit sundae, a tie bar should be half the width of your tie with a matte or silver finish and positioned at mid-sternum.

Belt

There has been a war waging between belt and non-belt users with suits. There’s an easy way to settle this: If your pants have belt loops, wear a belt.

Cuff-links

Only necessary for French cuff shirts. Silk knots add color and should match your shirt or tie. Silver squares are a class selection for any occasion and the only one for formal wear.

Watch

In the world of smartphones, no one uses a watch as a timekeeper anymore. However, your timepiece should be your most precious accessory and a luxury you can’t help but afford. If there is anything that you can wear that sets you in a class above everyone else, it’s a finely made watch. Select a big face steel chronograph if you’re looking to make an impact or soften your look with a rose gold, leather strap watch. No pocket watches… save that for Sunday’s viewing of Downton Abbey.

                                             

Well, there you have it. The power to boss the boardroom. But a businessman is much more than his navy blue suit. Class, precision, and a taste for fine things are the qualities needed for an elite businessman and the qualities that must be shared with his wardrobe as well. Anything less than exceptional can hinder the potential masterpiece, so spare no expense and dress to impress.